Chemical peels are acids used to exfoliate the top layer or layers of your skin encouraging skin to rejuvenate by chemical exfoliation. This exfoliation process penetrates deeper in the skin in order for the top layers of the skin to start peeling. This process improves, appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin tone, texture, and resiliency.

A peel — whether it’s performed at home or in the dermatologist’s office, exfoliates the skin’s dead, outer layers to reveal newer, presumably younger-looking, skin beneath. Most peeling solutions are keratolytics — meaning they accomplish their effects by chemically breaking down the bonds that hold dead cells (aka corneocytes) together.

Chemical peels (also known as chemical exfoliation) have been around since ancient times: even Cleopatra is alleged to have bathed in donkey milk (a rich source of lactic acid). In the past century or so, many peeling solutions have been developed and proven to be effective for addressing a variety of skin concerns.

Dermatologists evaluate which type of peel to use based on a patient’s skin type and concerns. Chemical peels can address myriad skin conditions, including:

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
• Melasma
• Acne
• Minor scarring
• Solar lentigines (aka sunspots)
• Fine lines
• Freckles
• Uneven tone/texture
• Actinic keratoses (aka precancerous growths)

There are three depths of chemical peels:

• Light/superficial: removes layers from the epidermis only, to varying degrees
• Medium: removes the entire epidermis and into the papillary (upper) dermis
• Deep: removes the entire epidermis, papillary dermis, and into the reticular dermis

The depth of a peel depends on a combination of factors, including:

• Peeling agent
• Concentration
• Solution pH
• Application technique
• Duration of procedure (unless self-neutralizing)
• Skin type + thickness
• Skin health

Decades of research has shown that certain types of peels work better for particular skin types. Generally speaking, there is a chemical peel solution and depth that works well for every skin tone, from very fair to very dark — so seek out a provider who specializes in your skin type and concern. Though it’s best to have a dermatologist evaluate your unique skin, rules of thumb include:

• Darker skin tones should avoid medium and deep peels
• Lighter skin tones can tolerate deeper peeling
• People who tend to develop hypertrophic, keloid, or hyperpigmented scars should avoid medium/deep peels
• People with skin conditions like melasma, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis should stick to lighter peels
• Those taking isotretinoin and certain other medications should not undergo chemical peels
• Anyone with active herpes virus (aka cold sores) should not peel

The short answer: it depends. There are many different superficial peels available at over-the-counter strengths, addressing everything from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to dullness. These are generally formulated to be safe and effective, when used as directed (and not too frequently). Check the product labeling for any contraindications for your skin type — and perform a patch test if you’re sensitive.

In between chemical peeling, or to get a feel for some of the ingredients used during a chemical peel, try experimenting with a product like SLMD AHA/BHA Swipes. These cotton rounds contain a solution of glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids to gently exfoliate, clear out pores, and fade excess pigmentation — no neutralizing necessary.

It’s worth noting that while you can easily find medical concentrations of chemical peeling agents like glycolic acid and TCA online, it’s never safe to try deeper treatments at home.